Rooster Rock to Reed Island Anchorage

15 June 2009: Monday

I depart Rooster Rock at 0830 hrs on a ebbing tide, but still have 7-11 feet of water in the slough. I swing out into the protected bight at the entrance as this looks like a good place to anchor providing the wind is blowing up river. I mark it on my chart as I head out into the channel and sight my next navigational marker. I want to cruise as close to Reed Island as I can to see the lay of the land. There is a large stand of small trees that have been blown over which would have had to be winds coming off the cliffs above Rooster Rock and blowing down river to do this kind of damage.

By 0930 hrs I am anchored just inside the entrance to Reed island in 12 feet of water. I set my anchor hard with my engine in reverse. There is no wind, the sun is out and the river looks like a lake. There are many GBH(herons), ospreys and a few eagles. I'm going to like this place. I had stowed the solar shower on the floor of Pashmina and by 1100 hrs the water is nice and warm. I have a nice bath/shower and boy, does that feel good. Clean clothes..well, I put on a swim suit of sorts.

A kayaker paddles by and circumnavigates the island, a research vessel comes into shore on Reed and checks some traps, and some small fishing boats are cutting through from the upper end of Reed from the Columbia. With all the high water they are getting through. The charts show that the upper end is all exposed shoaling normally. On the WA side there is a small airfield in which I watch some aerobatic planes perform their loops, spirals, and dives. I watch 3 free air shows this afternoon. I never know what the next minute will bring. Later in the afternoon the clouds clear off the tops of the mountains and Mt Hood is clear as a bell. I can see Crown Point above Rooster Rock. Just off my port side the ospreys have a favorite fishing hole and dive all day long taking their small catches back to their nests to their ever starving babies.

My most unfavorite nautical vessel: the skidoos arrive for an evening of zooming here and there

and I believe they take great joy in getting as close as they can to anchored boats. By sunset, all the boats have gone except myself and another one anchored deep into the cut. We turn our anchor lights on at dark and settle in for a peaceful night.

Days run 4.1nm

Total: 62.5 nm

Reed Island Anchorage

16 June 2009: Tuesday

Boat wakes awaken me at 0445. I get up and look around and climb back into my warm bunk.

I get up in 2 hours and my eyes are red, itchy, and I'm sneezing. I take an antihistamine, put the mantra on, the coffee water, meditate and give myself a Reiki treatment. The morning is sunny but then clouds over for the day. After breakfast I take the stove out and give the galley a good cleaning. Next is the ice chest and all the food is stored in the dc refrig. I take an inventory of remaining foods, plan meals for the remainder of the trip and will throw in a few meals at Washougal and St. Helens. I should get home with all the food gone. I use all my left over ice water to refill the solar shower. I don't want to waste my fresh water. I tidy up the aft cabin deck and she looks nautical and nice.

After lunch I take a little 15 minute snooze and read more about Lewis and Clarke in this area. They camped along the river coming into Washougal and stayed quite a while. Clarke took a group back down to explore the Willamette River, another group explored the Sandy River across the way, which they called Quicksand island. The main thrust in 1806 on their way back east was to provision themselves as best they could. Smoking meats, using the elk hides to make clothes and twist into ropes to haul the boats up river and portage them through the Cascade Falls. They tanned hides that would buy horses once they got to Nez Perce country. I love reading and re-reading about this adventure. I never tire of it. I have several books, calendars, brochures and pamphlets about the Corps of Discovery. I always learn something new that I missed on the previous reading. For example, for all the hard work that York and Sacagawea did, they were the only 2 that weren't compensated for their service. York pleaded with Capt Clarke upon their return to be granted his freedom from slavery, but Clarke would never give it to him. Other not so known facts: Clarke did take in the 2 children of Sacagawea to raise and educate them, as if they were his own. Clarke married a 15 year girl upon his return, Lewis never married and he never managed to get his journals published. Many people never learned that he was probably manic-depressive and an alcoholic and finally committed suicide. Such a tragic ending for such a talented man.

I watch with interest when an older wood, lapstrake hulled power boat about 35 feet length enters the anchorage and continues deep into backwaters. He probably has a 3 foot draft. He anchors near the island shore. He anchors for a while but then drift fishes while coming back out to the main river. I'll have to check this out in the morning. After sunset I put on my anchor light and continue reading with my new cockpit light. I had a simple, easy, restful day at anchor. I love being in a quiet anchorage.

Reed Island to Government Island West(Sandy Beach)

17 June 2009: Wednesday

I weigh anchor at 1030 and set a course deeper into the cut behind Reed Isl, following the path of that cruiser last night. I was amazed how much further up river I could go. This is good knowledge for future trips. It always helps to have local knowledge. I retrace my course and cut across the channel to where I have seen some other fishing boats go. It is behind Gary Island and is between several range markers. There is a small cove back there that would be good to go in at high tide. I make my stop at 6 feet depth and survey the area. This also would provide shelter in the spring and early summer in a shallow draft boat. All good to know about.

I turn down river and at markers 50 and 48 my speed is 10k at 2400rpm. I usually cruise at 2700 rpm.

I'm pulling into the port of Camas-Washougal and am prepared for the strong currents. Fenders and lines are ready on both sides. I need to pump out my holding tank which is on the starboard side but that would mean I would have to dock down current which would not be a good idea and a large signage on the dock states not to try this. As I approach the dock the current kicks me off so I have to retry. I continue up into the marina and circle back down and out and then turn around again to come into the dock. Just then a small fishing boat with 2 men pull abruptly behind me and take the place next to the pump out station where I was going to dock. I gave them a stern look and then was going to have to pull forward and out again. The man jumped out of his boat and yelled, Come back, I'll help you. He grabs my stern line in the nick of time and together we get the boat tied up. I asked him if he was getting gas and he said no. I said I need the pump out hose and he gets it for me. Just as quickly as they arrived on the scene they were gone. I was miffed that they were messing up my strategy, but the truth was they had pulled in behind me to assist me. Nautical Angels. I yelled thanks and waved.

The current is so strong at the dock I didn't dare try to untie to move Shatoosh closer to the pump out. I was hoping the hose would reach. I am now in a position that I never wanted to be in. I walk out on the narrow deck and hold onto to the cabin top railing and bend over to try to reach the screw fitting with my my little opener tool. I stretch my body to the max and both armpits feel as though they are being ripped apart as I see the current raging past my eyes. I get it open and off and then have to screw in the adaptor fitting. On the third try I get it aligned correctly. I stand back up and walk to turn on the pump, get the hose and bring it around the aft section of the boat. I put it between my legs and use my hands to take me back out on the side deck again. I can't manipulate the on/off switch, but discover that it is stuck in the on position. Again I stretch and lean over to pump her out. Fortunately, I have a small holding tank so it only takes less that a minute. That done I return the pump, remove the adaptor, screw on the cover plate, go below and put in new toilet chemicals and wash my hands. I'm hot and have a headache from bumping my head, so take some electrolytes and water and feel instantly refreshed. Now I'm hoping getting ice will be easy. I call on the dock phone, leave a message and wait for someone to come down.

2 men show up and are quite happy and friendly. Well, I have to say it again, they were really impressed with Shatoosh. We chat for some time and then I ask for ice. He brings me a bag/ they don't carry block. I ask, how much? He says there is no charge today for you, smiling from ear to ear. Really? How can that be, I ask? We want to be of help and provide good service. They wait as I shift my ice box items around. Mark is his name. He hands me his card. Oh, I see, he is the harbor master. He tells me that on the other side of the pump out is another protected slip that I can use in the future. Good news and it just gets better. He will cast me off and come help me tie up at the Puffin restaurant, where I had planned to eat lunch. Off I go and he meets me around the corner. The current is now abeam and compressing all my fenders, so I put out some extra fenders for protection. He says he is off to lunch, but call him when I am ready to leave and he will help me off. What a nice guy. Talk about service. A have a great lunch and give Mark a call. He is back in minutes and helps get me off the dock. I tried to move the boat and I could not make it move an inch against the current, so I was glad to see him. With some fast maneuvering and goosing the engine I was able to get out and around the last boat on the pier and turn up current and make my circle out of the marina. Whew, is all I can say, but I'm glad to know that I can pump out under the worst of conditions. Later in the day, I send Mark a photo of Shatoosh with a big thank you text. Another Nautical Guardian Angel. I love it.

1315hrs I'm glad to be on the river again and decide not to explore this inlet(Jensen Cove) nestled down in the barge haulout area. I've had my fill of tight quarters and currents. However, I do want to explore the back side of Akerman Island and the slough into Camas. I pick up the Akerman range and see some interesting places: The Vancouver Yacht Club, and several large homes on the Wa side. One design catches my eye: one central octagonal living area with 2 separate wings. This is just what I have always thought would be an ideal living arrangement. 2 private wings and a great room to share common activities. Perfect. I 'm now reaching "4"marker at Lady Island which acts a buffer zone for the Camas Slough. This slough is really for barge traffic into the papermills in Camas. It is deep and lined with pilings to tie barges to. As I approach the overhead bridge I am slowed by the swift current again and not wanting to get into a tight space again, I turn and retrace my course outward bound docking safely at the newly completed Government Island Docks( over a 1,000ft of dock space) on the west end. It is 1500hrs and I am the only one here. Surprise, I love weekday cruising.

All seems quite and peaceful until after I go to bed. At 2300hrs I am awakened by the wake of probably a tug and barge. Shatoosh rides the wake rather poorly so I decide to get up and check my dock lines. I see the tug and barge upriver of me. I'm sitting on the helmseat looking at the lights and how pretty the 205 bridge is at night when out of the corner of my right eye is an animal moving down the outer dock. It's head is lowered and he is moving rather fast but checking out the various sides of the dock. He goes to the end and starts back up. I grab my flashlight and shine it in his direction. Yes, it looks like a coyote for certain. I don't see him leave the docks, but wait as he could be coming down my dock or perhaps he already has. I stay put and in a few minutes a large cruising ship appears coming down river at a fast clip. I can't hear an engine nor do I feel any wake. A four story cruise ship all lighted up like a ghost ship. I sit quietly in the dark of the cockpit waiting to see what might happen next but all seems quite. I crawl back into my bunk and immediately fall asleep. Early in the morning before dawn I have these amazing dreams of coyotes and wolves coming into my newly purchased property. I brew an extra strong cup of coffee to get me going.

Days run 15.1nm Total 77.4nm

Government Island to St. Helens and on to Coon Island

18 June 2009: Thursday

After breakfast I take a nice long walk on the sandy beach, heading up river. The tide is out and I see lots of fresh tracks. With the coyote on the dock last night, I am wondering what I will find this morning. The sun is shinning and I'm excited to take advantage of it. Before I get off the docks I can see deer tracks from the cat walk. As I venture out along the shore, tracks are everywhere. There are more deer tracks, single deer and deer with fawn tracks, there are some that would be consistent with the coyote, but then there is a set of a larger padded print with longer claws. The animals that are common are raccoon, beaver, opossum, otter and muskrat. I see a killdeer and her tracks. A small creek is flowing from a dammed pond. I had spotted this as I came down river yesterday. I climb up to see the dam and the pond. As I continue there is a set of very fresh tracks of a deer in the most recent section of falling tide which means to me that a deer is very close by. It is not but a few more minutes that I see her and she has turned back down river headed towards me. We see each other about the same time and she turns back up river and vaults up the steep slope into the forest. I can't venture further as the beach stops at the water's edge, so I return to Shatoosh and drink a whole bottle of water. I am sweaty from the walk, but feel invigorated. I need to get me a chart of animal tracks.

It is 1100 hrs as I depart this lovely strip of land that Lewis and Clarke called Diamond Island because of its shape. My speed picks up to an easy 8.5k as I slide down river with the fast current. By 1200 hrs I have slipped under the I-205, the I-5 and the train trestle bridges and come upon the Laser Acee and the Cisne Blanco from Panama. The Marinius Green from Rotterdam and the Corello Arrow from Nassau are all tied up in the Portland Harbor. I have to slow down to allow 2 families of Canada Geese to cross the harbor.

At 1130 hrs I am back to the mouth of the Willamette River, which means, I have completed the circumnavigation of Hayden Island. In front of me is the tug Betty Lou making another run up the Willamette River with a barge in tow. This is the 3rd time I have seen this busy tug on this trip. I remember as a kid watching Marjorie Main playing Tug Boat Annie and how much fun I thought it would be to run a tug. I still think that.

At 1245 I slow down to investigate a small inlet on the chart. I can see several fishing boats in there with a small sailboat and a few floating homes. There would probably be a chance for me to enter but I hold back as it is still low tide. I see a man on the un-named island in front setting up a tent and he has pulled his small sailboat up on shore. I'm in about 6 feet of water so back out and start to drift down river as I see an immature eagle and a crow on shore eating a fish. For about 15 minutes I slowly drift down on them. Finally the eagle hears my engine and flies off, but I do get a photo of him. I take a head break, fix lunch and bring it into the cockpit to eat. I continue to drift along in deeper water. I send a voice message to my great nieces about all the animals I am seeing.

Another hour later I see a head bobbing in the middle of the river. It is a lady out swimming with out a life jacket. I turn and pull over to see if she is needing help. NO, she says, isn't it a wonderful day?

I come up on Channel marker #13 at 1355 hrs which is the entrance to Bachelor Island Slough. One cannot enter here but this is part of the Ridgefield wildlife area. It looks like an interesting place to anchor in calm weather. By 1430 hrs I am at Warrior Rock light on the end of Sauvie Island and just beyond is St Helens. I proceed to Mayday Marine Barge and spot Mike, my mechanic. I wave to him and let him know I'll meet him in the morning and then head over to the city dock.






After tying up, I head up to the street to discoverer there will be a bluegrass concert at 1800 hrs and the tents are set up for the city food court and the odors make me feel hungry all over again. I dump my trash, use the restrooms and return to Shatoosh. a large Grand Banks Trawler pulls in and I assist them with docking and the winds are picking up. Two men are onboard and we begin talking. They are very interested in Shatoosh and have known about Albins, but have never see one. The younger man has circumnavigated the world in his Catalina 36, named Patriot and the older man and his wife crewed for him often at various legs of the trip. We talked for a long time and all of us felt a common, kindred spirit between us. It is wonderful to talk with people who have sailed the oceans, as there is a shared experience that few have done. Many dream of sailing the oceans, but few actually ever do it. You come away from an oceanic voyage with a different perspective on life. You are humbled by the forces of nature, you gain incredible confidence in yourself as you maneuver through waves, latitudes, longitudes, time zones and become one with the ocean and your vessel. There is a spiritual gift that is given to you. You become part of a unique group of people.

St Helens is where there is a merging of the Multnomah Channel, Lewis and Clarke River, and Lake River into the Columbia River. A busy crossroads. This has been an enjoyable day and my longest run of the trip. I got to join in the free city concert, have a Thai dinner, meet interesting new people, and track animals like Lewis and Clarke did 200 years ago. I return to Shatoosh and watch the Thursday night around the Sand Island Yacht race, have some peppermint tea and go to bed early. Wow, this has been a busy day. Day's run 26 nm Total 103 nm

St Helens to Coon Island

19 June 2009: Friday

It has rained all night long and as usual the rolling waves in the marina cause a restless sleep. I'm ready to get up at 0500 hrs. to put the coffee water on and get dressed. The rain has stopped, but it is chilly, so I sit up in the bunk, cover back up with the down bag and listen to the mantra and meditate.

Mike, from Mayday Marine is going to check the valve clearances and he starts work at 0730 hrs. I head over to his barge and find it impossible to dock down river into the slip with this current so I tie up on the outside head to current. It is calm and not raining. He finds the valves very loose and the linear gasket disintegrated. After getting the the clearances adjusted, he points out I should replace my wing nuts on my batteries with regular nuts which I will do. He also deliveries vessels up north, so I ask about his strategies about cruising north along the coast. He is such a professional. It is always such a delight to pull in and and get the engine worked on. I have such confidence in his work. He is a teacher and takes the time to explain what he is doing and I like all of that.

The World, the first condominium ship for multi-millionaires passes us going down river and it is too far off to get a picture of it. I watched a program on it on the Travel channel. It is going around the world, the owners get to decide where they cruise, each owns their apartment and get to design it and furnish it from several first class decorators. It is the ultimate in ship cruising. Go to wikipedia to read more about it.

I head back to St. Helens docks to tie up and have some breakfast. As I venture into town all the usual eating places have shut down. I go into the Gallery for a latte and have a very interesting chat with the owner of the residential hotel on the corner. He tells me that he has owned the place for 15 years and he owns a black Clydesdale mare which he bought as a foal. Apparently there was a breeding program in BC for draft horses which would be used for horse meat and sent to foreign countries. This didn't go over well with the Canadians so a ranch in Oregon rescued all the horses, so he and his partner went over and bought 2 of them. He has trained them himself and rides the mare often. Her neck width is 24 inches, he says. He is all interested in my little Albin and thinks it is the perfect cruiser.

Before I head out at 1030 hrs I have to take this picture of these 3 fishermen. I slip into the Multnomah channel and head up river. It is stormy looking, but calm and I make an easy 5k. On the way to Coon Island the skies open up again with torrential rains, but with the rain Gods on my side it all stops as I dock Shatoosh on the east side-inside at 1215 hrs. I am starving, so quickly heat up the burner and have an egg and cheese omelet. The sun comes out and I am in heaven again.

I assist a sailboat to dock. It is a Dutch design with a 6ft draft. The skipper is of French Huguenot heritage, as I am. His ancestors came to America with the Winthrop colonization around the 1630's to settle the Boston area. His favorite cruising destination is Warren Slough. I have never been able to locate this, but will try again this year. He also tells me about how he gets through Devil's Elbow. There is a deep cut near the mainland side of the shoal area that he first saw a tug go through. He always uses it now and since he has a 6ft draft, I would have to believe him.

I took Pashmina off the cabin top and gave her a good scrubbing, put her back on top and cover her up with the tarp. I pack up my sea bags, dirty laundry and electronics. Clean the refrigerator, ice box ans consolidate the few remaining food items.

Speaking of dirty laundry. This is my laundry bag that my twin, Jean, made for me when I moved aboard Sabra in Hawaii in 1980. Some things are just perfect and never need to be changed, altered, repaired or thrown away. I dearly love this laundry bag, it comes to Shatoosh nice and clean, folded for the next journey and is filled with old, dirty worn boat clothes and taken home, laundered and the cycle repeats itself, month, after month, year after year, decade after decade. I feel it is a perfect laundry bag, just as Shatoosh is a perfect cruiser.

Later in the afternoon a wonderful little cruiser comes in and docks right next to me. It was a Bayliner 26. I enjoy the couple very much and they had looked at Albins before this current boat. He has always loved them. So I was more than happy to show him every nook and cranny. We talk to 2130 hrs. sharing stories and have a wonderful time.

Day's run 7 nm

Total: 110 nm

Coon Island to Scappoose Moorage

20 June 2009 Saturday

I depart Coon island, after I say good by to my newly found friends on board their Bayliner 26 at 0905 hrs. I slowly head up river savoring my morning, my day, and my trip. It has been really a delightful time, all unplanned and all serendipitous. This is the way I like it and the way I live my life. More and more I am in the moment and aware of divine intervention. Guardian angels appear to assist me when I need help and stand by when I don't.

I bypass the marina and decide to head up to Rocky Pointe to refuel. The fuel price has gone up $.29/gal since last week but still a deal at $ 2.79. I enjoy looking at all the floating homes, boats and even spot a Pacific Seacraft 25, which Jean and I owned in Hawaii. This completes my circumnavigation of Sauvie Island.

It is 1100 hrs when I pull into my slip. I unload Shatoosh, grab my supply list and head up the dock when the thunderous rains dampen my efforts to get up the ramp and out to the car. Like an orphaned child my carry-on waits at the end of the dock for the rain to stop. None of us really want to leave, so I hang out and talk with some dockers cleaning their boats and putting for sale signs on them.

Day's run:8nm

Total: 118nm

A Down River Surprise on My Up River Cruise

Tall Ships Become Icing on my Cruising Cake

Hawaiian Chieftain

1330 hrs. My road trip home.

I’m always reluctant to leave Shatoosh and return home, but I was anticipating getting to see The Lady Washington and the Hawaiian Chieftain as they were possibly in the small river town of Rainier this weekend. I had seen the Hawaiian Chieftain on the San Joaquin River in California many years ago and have seen the Lady Washington numerous times in Washington, but never close up. As I enter the town of Rainier in my trusty Rav 4, they are tied to the docks. A vision to behold, as I glance at all the lines, the character of the ships , the antiquity of the scene and the crew dressed in period costumes. I’m not sure why this event was not publicized more. I would have certainly cruised down to be a part of it. I find I have just missed the tours of the vessels and they are getting ready to embark on a 3 hour cruise with canon ball fights. I see a squall line coming up river, so decide to pass on this opportunity as I don’t have a jacket with me.

Lady Washington

The maze of rigging. Each line has a function and each crewman must know what to pull and when to pull a line.

This is such a wonderful opportunity for our youth to learn these ancient skills of seamanship.

A couple of crewmen begin to unfurl some sails.

Go to http://www.ladywashington.org/ to see her sailing schedule. You can visit her onboard, go for a sail, or book passage for a day or overnight sailing. September 15-17, 2009 looks really inviting to me: Port Townsend to Westport Wa.

A Nautical Rendezvous with an Old Friend

3 June 2009: Wednesday, Gig Harbor WA

My dear friend, Glenn, is an octogenarian now and his sailing opportunities have slowed over the years since his 2 bypass heart surgeries, cataracts and weak legs. However, his delightful spirit soars and is excited each day that he wakes up and each month, when he gets his big retirement check from his 40 years of Navy Military Service. He is among the dwindling numbers of WWII veterans, as well.

Today is special for me, as I get to see my old sailing buddy. I get up at 0500, shower and try to comb what hair I have. I meet him in Gig Harbor at his sister in law, Jean and her husband, Dick’s house overlooking the water front. The three of them have sailed into Gig Harbor on their chartered Lyle Hess designed Bristol Channel Cutter. This has been a favorite boat of Glenn’s for years, but this is his first time sailing one. Their charter started in Anacortes, WA through the Swinomish channel in La Conner, behind Whidbey Island and into Gig Harbor. I meet them at 0600 hrs, have a bite to eat and we head over to the boat which is docked at the city dock in town. They are returning via Oak Harbor while visiting a mutual old friend Marge. Marge and Eric had sailed from Hawaii to WA about one month ahead of me back in the 80’s. He was a retired Naval Captain at the time and they were dock mates of mine.

After their departure, I drive up to the entrance of the harbor and take some pictures of them pulling out. The sun is beginning to peak out over the mountains, as I watch them make their turn up Colvos Passage taking Vashon Island to starboard. It was such a delight to get to see them all, but especially Glenn.

I remember the first time I met him. I had just arrived in Hawaii for my duty station at Tripler Army Medical Center. On my first weekend there was a Cal 20 race at the Waikiki Yacht Club. I was crewing with Glenn on one of the regular club boats. While we didn’t win, we had a really great time. It was the beginning of many sailing days together. One memorable race was around the island race, a 3 day event. Glenn wanted to do it, but his wife wasn’t interested. Glenn asked me to crew and when his wife heard who his crew was, she decided that she better go along. We always chuckled about that. We really had a wonderful race and Lavonne, his wife even had fun.
Glenn has never crewed on Shatoosh, but he has supported my boating efforts over many years by giving me charts, GPS, great prices on survival suits for our pacific crossing, which I still have. He reads the blog and prints up each posting, saving them in a notebook. I always have nothing but kind thoughts of him, so it was a treat to get to see him again, but more important it was wonderful that Dick and Jean were able and willing to take Glenn to sea one more time.

By the way, Glenn did not like many of the features of the Bristol Channel Cutter. After going aboard, I agreed with them all, it would not be a vessel I would want to cruise on. I’m getting pretty picky in my old age as to the criteria of a good cruising boat. If you ask me, hands down, there is nothing that can compare with an Albin 25.