17 June Thur: Dawn is coming quite early, but we meander through coffee and breakfast leaving Barlett’s at 0830. This next phase is picking up the numerous range markers for the barge channel. There are numerous islands and shoals through this area so a close navigational eye is in need. We are now getting accustomed to the numerous osprey nests on all the channel markers. All the mothers are sitting patiently awaiting their broods to arrive. About 0930 we pull into Washougal WA. to get fuel at the local marina. Departing at 1000 we fall in behind a tug and barge and pick up the channel again. Soon the tug is long out of sight and the wind begins to pick up on our nose. Now this is not what the books say; “In the summer months beware of strong upriver winds building late in the afternoon.”
Our next area to explore is the Rooster Rock State Park. This area has a huge conical peak, once known as Cock Rock, but later changed to its present name. The entrance is a narrow slough and the chart doesn’t even show there is evidence of a marina. Folks back at Bartlett confirm it has adequate depths this time of the year. But later in the summer it shallows to about 4 feet, preventing many boats from entering. Care thinks it might be good to stop and have lunch, so we look and look for its narrow entrance and slowly enter the small slough. It winds around the shore line and Rooster Rock. We come upon several short docks and a large long one which is not attached to shore. We choose the first one and the wind and current are tricky so I end up being blown away from the dock and on the second try I succeed with the agility of Care handling the dock lines. We venture ashore, checking out toilets, trash cans and showers. Only one bathroom is open and without shower. We fix a nice lunch and are on our way by 1240 after arriving at 1130. The depths turn out to be 5 ½ to 8 ¾ feet. We have gone a total of 35.3NM so far.
This is the beginning of the famous Columbia Gorge and the views upcoming are rather spectacular. High canyon walls filled with water falls, evergreens and the silhouettes of many canyons fill our visions. The headwinds are picking up and ahead are a variety of kite surfers criss-crossing the gorge and some coming quite close to the boat. We are approaching the WA Side of Cape Horn and a down river barge is also converging on us. So now we have the winds, surfers and barges and us, all going in different directions. Cape Horn, was named by Lewis And Clark, as they descended the Columbia in Oct 1805 were met with head winds coming upriver. Just like the book describes. We are re-reading and referring to Steven Ambrose’s Book, The Ultimate Courage, about the Corps of Discovery and its journey across America, departing St. Louis in May 1804 and returning 1806. I have several brochures which ear mark the camps with their dates. I share with Care what it must have been like to be the first white men/negro man to have journeyed this particular strip of landscape. Cape Horn is a spectacular cliff with waterfalls, pinnacle and columnar granite at the base. They plummet to the water’s edge. I recall those incredible columnar granite stacks on the Salmon River Raft trip that Care invited me to go on a few years ago.
Off in the distance the towering Beacon /Rock looms with a height of 848 feet, our destination for the day. The winds are quite blustery and the waves force us to turn on the wiper. We criss cross numerous fishing boats anchored for some late salmon and the prehistoric sturgeon. The currents are picking up by the mile as we get close to Bonneville dam. I’m told that they can get up to 8 knots. Our speed is down to low 4’s and occasional high 3’s. We have an upcoming barge on our stern as we find the entrance to the Beacon Rock State park and marina. There is another boat docked on the outside with the current pinning him to the dock, so I choose to go inside and try to dock on the port side which is a mistake and I can’t even get near the dock so with the wind, current and a quick decision we spin around trying hard to keep from blowing onto the shore and tie up on starboard. The current is fierce in here and Care and I struggle to pull the boat next to the dock. It is 1530 hrs and we have traveled a total of 47.6NM. We begin to settle in and enjoy the view of Beacon Rock. I say to Care, “do you see what I see”. I am looking at the intricate switch backs staircase snaking its way up the rock. I wonder if I am up to climbing it. We hike up the road quite a ways and someone tells us we have to go onto the main highway and walk half again as far to get to the trailhead. We decide that we will try in the morning when it is cool. We notice a sign for ice, which we will get tomorrow. Later in the evening, it cools off and the wind stops blowing and we enjoy a still night. Care sees a mother Merganser swimming with her babies on her back. She has heard of this happening and a first for her to see this. There are 4 babies. What a sight. My first to see merganser babies.
