Tuesday, May 29, 2012

3. A Unique Encounter in the High Seas

The HMS Discovery and Chatham had anchored near Destruction Island on 27 April 1792. At dawn they weighed anchors and proceeded north along the Washington coast with great hope they would be finding the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The north western coasts were Captain Gray’s territory and he was suspicious of any known vessels in the area that would infringe upon his trade. The beaver/otter were as good as gold and he didn’t want to share one beaver with anyone, except for buyers of the highly demanded pelts in the Orient, Great Britain and Europe. Every man in Europe wanted a beaver skin hat. Captain Gray sailed out of Boston, Massachusetts  and was the Commander of the American ship, Columbia Rediviva. In a  few weeks he would discover the mouth of the Columbia River.
Paintings by Steve Mayo-Google Images
The Famous Encounter of 3 Ships.



















On 28 April 1792, a lookout on the Discovery sees a ship entering from the north west and is on a converging course. They had been sailing the high seas for a year now, and it was their first sighted sailing vessel in 8 months. Upon approach it was recognized as the trading ship, the Columbia Rediviva with her famous American Commander Captain Gray. He had fought hard in the American Revolution on a Naval vessel, and was not happy to see British ships in this area. Captain Gray ordered a shot fired and all ships hove to.  Vancouver gave the order for Lt Peter Puget and  Mr. Archibald  Menzies, the Scottish botanist/surgeon to go in the launch and speak with Captain Gray, in order to confirm/find the great Strait of Juan de Fuca, which hopefully would then link them to the Northwest Passage. Menzies stated in his journal they had found it extremely interesting to have run across the Boston sea captain at the exact time in which they needed to confirm the position of the illusive strait.

Myth had just joined forces with coincidence and the mariners, cautiously, shook hands. During their 2 hour conversation Captain Gray was astonished to learn, for the first time, from the HMS Discovery envoy, a British mariner, Captain John Mears, had given him credit for sailing 20 leagues(1 league equals 3 miles) into the strait and made claims the American Captain had circumnavigated Vancouver Island. Captain Gray stated that upon going 17 leagues into the Strait(west of Port Angeles) he then exited. He, also, stated in the northern Queen Charlotte Islands( Haida Gwaii) indians had killed some of his crew and in fact, had held the Lady Washington captive for several hours. The Lady Washington was the first ship to fly the American flag, when she plied the waters of the northwest following the Revolutionary War with England. This maritime meeting of 3 great ships and their Commanders had clarified the nautical myths and calmed the waters of uncertainty. 

Captain Vancouver continued to take the HMS Discovery/Chatham north along the remainder of the Washington coast and in a short time they entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca. For 50 years the British Government had offered  military and civilian vessels a 20,000 pound reward for discovering a north west passage. This was big business and Vancouver wanted to succeed and so did every man onboard. They have  been at sea for a year and their primary mission was about to begin. 

Immediately, they began the exploration of the first Indian village between Neah Bay and Cape Flattery, which Captain Vancouver called, Classet.  As a precautionary and somewhat suspicious measure, Captain Gray decided to alter his course and followed the vessels into the Strait of Juan de Fuca to make certain that these Naval Ships, were in fact, exploring and not, infringing upon his fur trading  business. He was satisfied after a day and proceeded to follow his original course south along the coast and claim fame when he discovers and gains entrance to the Columbia River.

As the British ships plied the waters eastward into the deeper reaches of the Strait they made 16 anchorages  and explored villages, took sights, soundings, and drew charts. At the junction of the Straits and the southern and northern waters, Captain Vancouver sent the HMS Chatham north to explore the San Juan Islands and he turned south and entered what is now Admiralty Inlet, and named Port Townsend after the Marquis Townshend. They now have penetrated further into these waters than any other white man and the Indians they met were seeing white men for their first time in their lives. Would they be friendly or hostile?

They were in uncharted waters and became the first map makers of this portion of the Salish Sea. As you look out from the bow of your own boat, in this area, you are confronted with numerous land masses and inlets. Captain Vancouver orchestrated an unbelievable exploration of every major inlet in the southern waters and after the HMS Chatham did the same in the northern waters the two vessels rendezvoused at Restoration Point, on Bainbridge Island, and continued exploring southern waters until the return of Lt Puget and company on 27 May 1792.

2.In The Wake of Lt. Peter Puget: Keeping the Continental Shore to Starboard


In The Wake of  Lt. Peter Puget: 
Keeping the Continental Shore to Starboard
June 2012
by
Barbara Cullen Reid (Hira), USA Retired, LTC.
Commander of the 40 year old MV Shatoosh, Albin 25, HN 1124 
Built in Kristinehamn, Sweden in 1972 and 
Pashmina 2-1996 Porta-Bote
and
Consort Vessel, MV Skol 2, 2003 Arima Sea Chaser 16
Commanded by John Elmore, alias, Too Tall Tom

220 years ago, in 1792, an historic event took place in the Pacific Northwest corner of the  United States of America. The British Captain George Vancouver, Captain of HMS Discovery and Lt. and Commander William Broughton of the consort ship, HMS Chatham, entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca and began their epic exploration of the waters of the majestic Salish Sea searching for the illusive Northwest Passage which would connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
Captain George Vancouver
HMS Discovery







































Stefan Freelan
Graphic designer WWU































“The HMS Discovery was of 337 tonnage, a Sloop of War with a deck length of 96 feet, beam of 27 feet, draft of 15 feet, and carried guns: ten 4-pounders and ten swivels. Muster roles accounted for 100 men ages 16 - 38 years old. She carried several smaller vessels that would assist the crew in exploring the continental shoreline with a greater intimacy and accuracy." Peter Puget, Newell and Wing
Model of the HMS Discovery


















A large scale model of Captain George Vancouver’s ship of exploration, HMS Discovery, from which Lt. Peter Puget led the survey crews whose charts put the Northwest on the maps of the world. The Discovery model, commissioned by Discovery Modelers Education Center in Seattle, currently is on loan for display at the Foss Waterway Seaport Museum in Tacoma, Washington. Permission to use photo granted by: The Discovery Modelers Education Center, 860 Terry Ave. N, Seattle WA 98109. 206-282-0985




"Since the killing of Captain Cook in Hawaii, Britain ordered ships exploring in remote parts of the world to travel in tandem. Thus, the HMS Chatham became the consort vessel of the HMS Discovery and was of 135 tonnage, an Armed Tender, brigantine rigged with a deck length of 65 feet, beam of 21.5 feet and carried guns: four 3-pounders and six swivels. Muster roles revealed  45 men ages 17-45” Peter Puget, Wing and Newell
Lt William Broughton























HMS Chatham














Life at sea was not easy; the ships were over crowded and odoriferous, the teen aged able bodied  seamen were over worked, underfed, often punished when they disobeyed the rules by flogging using a cat of nine tails. They slept in swinging hammocks with 18inches of space and Captain Vancouver, age 33, was known for his fierce anger and difficult demeanor.


Both ships of His Majesty, King George III’s  Royal Navy had started their journey from England on 1 April 1791, sailing south around the Cape of Good Hope, New Holland(Australia), New Zealand, through the South Pacific islands, the Sandwich Isles (Hawaii) and in March 1792 they set sail for the west coast, known to the British Maritime as New Albion, but, to us and more specific, the coastal waters of Mendocino Point, California . They followed the coastline north, “keeping the continental shore to starboard” and needed information about finding and entering the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 

The Strait of Juan de Fuca had even been illusive to Captain Cook. It is interesting to note that the young 13 year old George Vancouver sailed with Captain Cook when they could not find the Strait. Now at age 33 he is about to make another attempt at finding this illusive strait. Maritime information held that Captain Robert Gray, aboard the Lady Washington had sailed about 20 miles up the Strait the previous summer during some of his trading expeditions. Could this be true or was it just another myth? Truth was as confusing as the seas were in this region of the world. No one had ventured deep into southern portions of this vast waterway and in fact, few had ever found the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca since the Spanish claimed they did in 1592. Was it all just a myth?  Even today, as I research the history, there are many misconceptions in the writings, therefore, it is no wonder in 1792, their uncertainty was well justified. Juan de Fuca was actually, a Greek who sailed under the Spanish flag and used the alias name, Juan de Fuca. I’m glad it became the Strait of Juan de Fuca, because it would have become the Strait of Apostolos Valerianos and no one would have been able pronounce it!

Photos by Google Images and Wikipedia
The Salish Sea: permission Stefan Freelan



Monday, May 28, 2012

1.A New Adventure Begins to Take Form

About 4 years ago, while house sitting on Orcas Island, I happened to see a book with a detailed accounting of Peter Puget’s Exploration of the Sound by  Robert Wing and Gordon Newell.
Google images
















 It was named, Peter Puget and I read it from cover to cover, thinking how much fun it would be to replicate this journey, once I got Shatoosh to the Puget Sound. I was a long way from getting Shatoosh to the Sound. I still had to cruise the Snake and Middle Columbia Rivers, go through 8 Locks and Dams and figure out if it would be feasible and smart to cross the Columbia River Bar and cruise a 25 ft boat up the Washington coast, which at times, can not be a friendly place due to the extreme weather conditions. Well, if you are a long time faceless blog reader, you know all that happened and without incident. Last summer, as I was making my way south  from my coastal cruise I continued to talk and think about this possibility and after my first docking in Gig Harbor, I headed to an old used book store and found  the book, buying it right away. Since that time, I have read it again, several times over, and stopped at several places to investigate possible landing sites in Pashmina and anchoring sites in Shatoosh.


As I write this, it is  February and the winds are howling outside my sweet abode, causing a large tree to fall blocking the back gate to the property. I am snug inside compiling information, typing up lots of notes and putting together a planner.















This will be one of my more simpler adventures. I talk often to my buddy, Too Tall Tom, who is an avid explorer/history buff and I am hoping he will take the challenge to join me, either on Shatoosh or with his little Skol, a 16 ft Arima, as a consort vessel.. Too Tall Tom is responsible for trailering Shatoosh to the Columbia River for me. This guy is always fun and funny to have on board. See Snake River blog  June 2010. 




















28 May 2012: Memorial Day

Too Tall Tom and Skol are making there way up I-5corridor  from California to join Shatoosh, Pashmina and Hira and weather permitting in June we will begin our  Replication of Lt. Peter Puget's Exploration of the Southern Waters of Puget Sound.  I will be posting numerous sections of the history of these great Explorations prior to our departure. Read along and learn about this epic adventure that Captain George Vancouver orchestrated in 1792.

It is fitting that we celebrate today's posting in their honor as being British Naval Officers, as Too Tall and Hira being veterans of the US Army and to celebrate all those who have served and died in the military. My hopes of posting this adventure on the blog is that our awareness will increase about the Voyage of the Discovery and the Chatham, that as a result of this new information we will continue to cruise these waters with increased awareness, honor these great explorers and be extremely grateful for the hardships they endured as they ventured into the unknown.

We are about to have a great adventure so stay tuned and I hope you enjoy this one as we are about to have some fun.

References used in preparing all of the upcoming postings:

1. With Vancouver in Inland Washington Waters: Journals of 12 Crewmen,April- June 1792, Richard Blumenthal, also personal conversation 24 Feb 2012 in Bellevue Wa.
2. Peter Puget, Robert Wing/ Gordon Newell, 1979: authors deceased and publishing company no longer in existence.
3. The Interwoven Lives of George Vancouver, Archibal Menzies, Joseph Whidbey, and Peter Puget: The Vancouver Voyage of 1791-1795, John Naish, 1979
4. Peter Puget on Puget's Sound, Murray Morgan 1979
5. Sailing with Vancouver, Sam McKinney: author deceased
6. Google Images with special reference to Steve Mayo's artwork regarding the Discovery/Chatham/ Columbia Rediviva. While I emailed Steve Mayo for permission I never got a reply. Since the images were on Google Images, I took liberty to use them. I apologize for any infractions.
7. A large scale model of Captain George Vancouver’s ship of exploration, HMS Discovery, from which Lt. Peter Puget led the survey crews whose charts put the Northwest on the maps of the world. The Discovery model, commissioned by Discovery Modelers Education Center in Seattle, currently is on loan for display at the Foss Waterway Seaport Museum in Tacoma, Washington. Permission to use photo granted by: The Discovery Modelers Education Center, 860 Terry Ave. N, Seattle WA 98109. 206-282-0985 
8. Vancouver's journals online-google.
9. Wikipedia.com
10.Google Images
11. The Salish Sea by Stefan Freelan

Linda Joins Us

25 May 2012
Linda joins me in the afternoon for a short over night trip to McMicken Island, as she has never been. We have a late start for the Memorial Weekend and are surprised to see about 12 boats moored and anchored. There is a minus .97 ft tide when we arrive. So we anchor behind the great tombola spit that connects McMicken to Harstene Island. We choose to anchor closer to Harstene to get away from the crowds. This is giving me a taste what summer is like here. I have been spoiled to be the only boat here all winter and spring. But it is an opportunity to anchor and see how the holding ground is.

We take Pashmina ashore and walk the spit. We see lots of live sand dollars and even see sand collars which are made of thousands of moon snail eggs encrusted in sand. They are rubber in texture. I forgot my camera so here is a wikipedia explanation .http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_collar


Linda is quite the farmer so she supplies new lettuce from her garden and we have fresh corn and jalepeno grilled shrimp and rice.










The next morning we take a walk through the trees.





















This one is big..a douglas fir.

The weather is holding so we decide to stay another day. I want Linda to see Jarrell's cove. I figure it will be totally crowded, but we are surprised to see very few boats here. I pick up my favorite buoy at the rear of the dock area.

















At low tide, a minus.3 ft still gives me 5 feet of water or 3.5 ft under the keel.
A young kid in a dinghy makes a nice trail in the water behind Shatoosh. We have a leisurely afternoon.

















I take Pashmina over to the fuel dock/marina and look at boats. I get an ice cream for me and take a candy bar back to Linda. On my way back I cross paths with a Sam Devlin designed boat that I had seen at Hope Island. We got invited on board and she is a beauty. Again I did not have my camera. She is the MV Ellie K
http://store.devlinboat.com/kokanee38.aspx

27 May 2012
It is overcast, so Linda takes the snap shackle off the buoy and we head back to the marina about 12 nm away. What a nice, easy laid backed  trip and it is always fun to have Linda on board.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Hope Island/ Squaxin Island to Home Port.

15 May 2012 Tues
Its 1230 hrs when I depart Hope Island and the Voyaging Society and I still am not ready to head directly back to my home port, so I continue to explore some more of the Squaxin Island shoreline. I anchor on the north side in a small cove and use my small danforth lunch anchor off the stern. The tide is ebbing, but the flow where I am anchored is gentle and I hold my position until 1430 hrs. I weigh my little anchor and for a change take it out on the bow rather than getting my cockpit wet. I find that it piggy backs well on top of my big danforth which is on the anchor roller.















This short trip has allowed me to see some new territory. Too Tall Tom is making his way to the Pacific Northwest. He has picked up Skol, his famous Snake River Arima 16 footer and will be arriving here next month. Stay tuned, as our big Peter Puget Exploration is about to begin and boy oh boy are we going to have some fun.
Day's run: 9nm
Total: 59nm.

A Surprise Encounter with the Puget Sound Voyaging Society

On the afternoon of the 14th and the morning of the 15th of May I am delightfully surprised by 2 visions of ancient voyaging. Off in the distance I hear a cadence being called, I get out of my comfortable position in the cockpit seat. Coming rapidly down on Shatoosh is a sight fitting for, "Oh my God". Since I spent the greater part of the winter planning for my upcoming Replication of Peter Puget's Exploration of the Puget Sound, here is an almost replica of one of his longboats rowing the southern Sound. I scramble for my cameras and try to get something down. Then the next day I run across them on the other side of the island and get to find out who these unique group of young people are. They belong to the Puget Sound Voyaging Society out of the Port Hadlock/Townsend area on the Olympic Peninsula and they are on their annual week long cruise sail+row. Some are sleeping on shore and some in the boat. I get to speak with Sam, Shawn and Jacob and learn about their program for boating and building skills. This rowing/ sailboat is  larger than what Puget used and there are 4 pair of oarsmen and 2 other crew.
Sam and Jacob

Shawn rows supplies to shore

























Take a look at what these kids are doing. I love it and hope to see them again on the Sound. Sam, I love your singing video as well.
http://communityboats.wordpress.com/


Hope Island to Boston Harbor

14 May 2012 Monday
Departure is at 1030 hrs and I head eastward out of Squaxin Passage and across Dana Passage to Boston Harbor which has a little store, fuel dock and marina. They have diesel, however I had to wait forever for someone to come down to the fuel dock as there was some communication problem so I fill up and then go around to the guest dock to pick up some supplies. They are out of all their seafood, their docks are pretty bad and broken up which makes for unsafe walking, but the help are friendly and apologetic for making me wait at the fuel dock. This is historically a quaint place and I will re-visit it in the future. I didn't even take a photograph but here is my course.
















Day's run: 9nm
Total: 50nm